攀岩技巧略谈

　　如果不是，那你就必须将绳子穿过铁链、Ｏ型环（龙洞多是此种）、或大孔的耳片（绝对不要将绳子穿过正常大小的耳片内，这样会严重损伤你的绳子！）。首先，先用两个快扣将你自己挂在两个anchor上，而这两个快扣在你吊带上必须是反向的。理想上快扣绳环的长度必须提供你活动足够的空间。而将快扣扣入铁链时，记得预留末端铁环给绳子用。（如图一）

图一

　　Now reel up about five feet of rope. Tie a figure-eight knot in this loop, and clip it to the belay loop or tie-in point of your harness, using a screwgate biner to be on the safe side (figure 2). This important step stops you from dropping the rope and keeps you backed up to lower bolts should the lowering station fail.

　　接下来，拿起约1.5米的绳子，打个双八，并用有锁钩环扣上你的吊带（如图二），这个重要的动作可以使你在下降点意外脱落时，还可以被下面的膨胀锚桩拉住。

图二

　　Next untie your climbing knob, tread the station, and tie back into your harness normally (figure 3). Release the figure-eight knot holding the backup loop, and wait for your partner to "take"you with a reassuring tug (figure 4). Finally, unclip the quickdraws from the station and lower.

　　然后将绑在你身上的绳头解开，穿过Ｏ型环或是铁链，最后将绳头重新绑回你的吊带（如图三）。将备用之绳结解开，并通知你的绳伴将绳子收紧（如图四）。直到你感到绳子已收紧后，将快扣解开，然后下降至地面。

图三

图四

　　Avoid the blunders

　　Got that? Good …but not so fast. Now let's look at the essential safety checks.

　　First, never take the leader off belay. Who's to say he won't unclip from the station and lean back on t