攀岩技巧略谈

（一）攀岩技巧之先锋篇 先锋收绳的要点

   Get Down - treading the anchors and lowering safely from sport routs   By Dave Pegg（王宏祥译）

　　It could be your first 5.6 or your first 5.14, but the route doesn't end with a victory yell at the anchors -you also have to get back down. This anticlimax leads to most sport-climbing accidents: The route is "over,"so the leader and belayer stop concentrating; one of them make a mistake, and the guy on the rock ends up splattered on the ground.

　　这可能是你第一条5.6或5.14，但路线并非在你到达顶点接受欢呼时就结束了，你还必须要回到地面上来。此时攀登者和确保者都很容易将注意力分散并不再保持联系，这也正是运动攀登最常发生意外的步骤。

　　Treading and lowering from the anchors at the top of a sport route is simple. But the process should not become thoughtless. Know the drill, and put the same amount of focus into getting down safely as you do into your climbing. Otherwise your next big send could be your last.

　　从anchor下降是一件很简单的事情，但并不表示你可以轻率为之。反覆练习、并且集中注意力，直到你安全下降至地面。不然的话，下一次可能就是你最后一次攀岩了。

　　Know the drill. A standard lowering station consists of two anchors. If these are equipped with carabiners or open-shut hangers, simply clip in the rope, or drop it over them, and lower.

　　Know the drill标准的下降点会有两个膨胀锚桩，如果上面有无锁钩环的话，直接将绳锁扣入钩环然后下降（当然，你要确定钩环是安全的！）。

　　If not, you'll need to tread the rope through a metal chain, ring, or large ring-shaped bolt hanger (never tread rope through webbing or a regular bolt hanger). Start by attaching yourself to both anchors with two quickdraws. The quickdraws should be clipped into the belay loop or tie-in point of your harness with their gates facing in opposite directions. Ideally, the quickdraws should also be long enough to let you hang down, rather then pull out on the anchors. When clipping into a chain, leave the bottom link fr